Behind the Lens: Photographic Gun For Hire, Sebastian Smith.

WhatsWear’s Editorial Director, Joseph Ungoco, sat down with renowned fashion photographer, Sebastian Smith, to discuss his career over a pot of exotic South African tea. Smith recently shot a fashion editorial, entitled Pool Hall Hustler, exclusively for WhatsWear.

JU: Sebastian Smith Photography is fast becoming a full-fledged brand. You seem to cover all the angles: portrait, editorial, advertising, beauty. Most photographers identify themselves as one specialty or another. Why not you?

SS: I am a gun for hire. I’ll shoot anything and make it look beautiful or ugly. You – the client – choose.

JU: You’ve been shooting for about 15 years now, how did you first get started?

SS: The universe brought photography to me at a time when I seriously needed the distraction.

JU: There’s a rumor in the industry that you’re self-taught. Is that true? Did you have a mentor?

SS: I am completely self-taught. My only mentors were the photographers whose work I studied in my now dog-eared copies of French VOGUE from the 1980s and 1990s.

JU: Which photographers, living or dead, do you admire? Why?

SS: I admire me. I love my work! Seriously though, of course, I admire all of the usual suspects like Newton, Penn and Avedon. They did, after all, pave the way for people like me. Honestly, I most admire my own work because I’m so proud of it and because it seems to resonate so deeply with the people who see it. I can’t tell you how many complete strangers, here and abroad, there are that I meet and, when they hear my name, they tell me about one of my shoots that they’ve seen and really loved. Sometimes, the shoot was ages ago or even for a magazine in another country. I’m always touched that my pictures have such a strong and lasting impact on people.

JU: Now on to subjects of your photographs – have you shot any well known girl models? Who would you secretly or not-so-secretly want to shoot?

SS: I shot Erin Wasson and she was a complete doll. Inès de la Fressange is the subject I would most like to shoot. If you who don’t know who she is, then you should have your fashion credentials revoked and be deported to someplace where they wear leaves for clothes. She is one of the first international Supermodels and you should be embarrassed to call yourself a fashion person, if you don’t already know her as Lagerfeld’s muse, Marianne – the face of all France – and a respected designer in her own right.

JU: Who’s your “dream team” for hair and makeup?

SS: It’s a very tough call for hair, because I love so many of them, but tops on my list for hair is Seiji Yamader at Hair Artists… and Charity Sampson. She has done some amazing work with (David) LaChapelle that is mind-blowing.

As for make-up, how could I call myself a fashion photographer and not pick Pat McGrath?

JU: What’s your “dream shoot”

SS: The Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris, Ines de la Fressange in Gareth Pugh, Charity doing the hair, Pat the makeup and for styling, the one and only Rene Garza.

JU: Pop Quiz: Studio or Location? Why?

SS: As they say in New York real estate – Location, Location, Location – because on location anything can happen. It’s the element of surprise that keeps me on my toes and on my game – and produces the most amazing shots

Remember we worked together on that shoot in Times Square where the girl looked like an alien from fashion’s future for (Portuguese fashion magazine) Zoot? That was a blast – like guerrilla warfare – trying to shoot with all the crowds gathering and walking through the shots – and still nailing the shot.

JU: Yeah! That was one shoot I’ll always remember – with all the teenage Next Top Model wannabees trying to jump into the shots. I remember that the model was totally professional – completely unfazed – and even quite polite as she told those rambunctious teens, “Please, I’m trying to work here. This is a job!” That was for the books. What’s the strangest thing that has ever happened on a shoot?

SS: I once asked this model to show me her “boots” and she pulled her shirt up!
I could tell that story a hundred times and still laugh my ass off…

JU: What was your first big shoot/assignment/placement?

SS: Years ago, I landed an editorial assignment for the now defunct Shuz magazine. That was back in the day when photographers still knew how to shoot (35mm) film. These days, I’d love to shoot for S Magazine. It’s beautiful — and why not?

JU: Do you have any rituals, superstitions, or lucky charms to help your shoots?

SS: I don’t need that Mumbo Jumbo. I rely on preparation.

JU: Always the pro, you are! So, tell me, what’s next for you?

SS: I’m taking a trip to see my agent in Lisbon, and then I plan relaxing on the beach. Shortly after that, it’s back to reality as I prepare for my gallery show (of fine art and fashion photography) in Milan.

JU: Where do you see yourself in 5 years? 10 years?

SS: I could be dead by then! I prefer to focus on what is absolute and tangible.
Right here, right now!

JU: Thanks for taking the time out of your busy schedule. I – and our readers – really appreciate getting to know the man Behind the Lens, who created such a gorgeous editorial for us. Do you have any last minute advice for aspiring fashion photographers?

SS: Always remember that you are living someone else’s dream life and don’t “take it for granted”.

JU: Words to live by! Thanks.

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1. Behind The Lens: Kathryn Wirsing
2. Model Behavior: Samantha Smith- Interview
3. Behind the Lens with Stephen Ciuccoli
4. Behind the lens: Joanna McClure